Choosing Fabric
This page has information on:
Choosing Fabrics
Knits: Stretch Fabric
Fabric Weight
Fabric Buying Chart
Matching Patterned Fabric
Choosing Fabrics for your Sewing Projects
Today many sewers, including beginners are afraid of making mistakes when selecting fabrics. They spend hours looking for fabric that is the exact feature on the pattern catalog. Remember, a pattern catalog only gives fabric selections that are recommended by the person who created that pattern. Here I give you information on the fabric(s) that fall in the same category as the suggested fabric(s) on the pattern catalog. You can substitute a pattern recommended fabric such as flannel, replace it with denim and still create a beautiful piece.
Below is information on the types of fabrics, the categories they fall under and their care instructions. This information is useful when making a decision on the right type of fabrics to purchase for your sewing projects or for when you are shopping for patterns.
We also give you a fabric buying chart which will help you understand the inches you will be buying by the yard.
Cotton:
Bastiste, broadcloth, corduroy, denim, flannel, seersucker, sheeting, terry, velveteen
These fabrics are absorbent, cool and strong.
Care: Machine wash, tumble dry, can be bleached, iron while damp.
Linen:
Demask, handkerchief, fabrics with nubby textures.
These fabrics are absorbent and cool. Great for spring and summer clothing.
Care: Dry clean to retain crispness, or wash to soften, iron while damp.
Silk:
Broadcloth, charmeuse, chiffon, crepe de chine, organza, raw silk, satin
These fabrics are absorbent, warm and drapes beautifully.
Dry clean, although some can be hand washed: iron on wrong side at low temperature.
Wool:
Challis, crepe, flannel, gabardine, jersey, melton, tweed
These fabrics are warm, absorbent, wrinkle resistant and provide good insulation.
Dry Clean, although some can be machine washed; press with steam iron
Acrylic:
Double Knits, fleece, pile fabrics, wool-like fabrics
These fabrics are warm and winkle resistant,
Machine wash, tumble dry; needs no ironing.
Nylon:
Illusion, net, tricot, two-way stretch knits.
Strong, stretchable, warm, lightweight, and wrinkle resistance. Great swimwear fabrics.
Care: Hand or Machine wash, tumble dry low, iron at low temperature
Polyester:
Cotton, silk and wool-like fabrics, crepe, double and single knits, fleece, georgette, jersey, panne, velet, satin, and taffeta.
These fabrics are strong, warm, wrinkle resistant, and holds shape.
Care: Machine wash, tumble dry: needs little or no ironing.
Rayon:
Challis, crepe, faille, linen-like fabrics, matte jersey, and velvet.
These fabrics are Absorbent
Care: Dry Clean or Machine hand wash at gentle setting, iron at low temperature, can be bleached.
Spandex:
Stretch wovens, two-way stretch knits.
Gives great stretch, durable, no static cling. Great use for swimwear or activewear.
Care: Wash or dry clean; Iron quickly on low temperature.
Fabrics for Beginners:
These fabrics are easy to handle for those who are new to sewing.
Cotton, Wool, and Acrylics.
Tip: Don’t use plaid and striped fabrics for your first sewing projects until you understand how pieces are fit together.
Know your Knits!: Stretch Fabrics:
Single Knits: A plain knitted fabric with a distinct rib on the right side and a different look on the reverse side, has cut edges that curl and usually has about 25 percent stretch. Examples are jersey, velour, terrycloth, and fleece.
Double Knits: Double knits are more stable that single knits, have less stretch, often look the same on both sides, have cut edges that do not curl, and stretch from 25 to 75 percent, depending on fiber and construction. Examples: wool double knit, interlock.
Rib Knits: Most rib knits have prominent vertical ribs on the right side and horizontal rows on the reverse although some may look the some on opposite sides. They ten not to curl and have up to 100 percent stretch. These knits are normally used as sweatshirt and t-shirt neck and arm bands.
Action Knits: Two-way and four way knits generally used for swimwear, dance, skating costumes and other athletic garments. Examples: Spandex Knits, Stretch Velvet, Nylon Spandex, Slinky, and Tulle.
Stretch Wovens: These fabric look like traditional wovens, but with an added amount of spandex, the fabrics have “give”. Examples: gabardine, satin, denim, corduroy.
Fabric Weight:
10 oz and above fabrics are heavy weight and the thickest of fabrics.
6 oz - 8oz fabrics are lighter weight and thinner. They normally fall in the medium weight fabric category.
Fabric.com…No Easier Way To Buy Fabric
How Fabric is Sold:
Fabric is sold by the yard depending on where you are.
Fabric Buying Chart:
Here is a chart to understand how many inches you will buy by the yard.
Yards - Inches
1/8 yard = 4 1/2 inches
¼ yard = 9 inches
1/3 yard = 12 inches
½ yard = 18 inches
5/8 yard = 22 ½ inches
2/3 yard = 24 inches
¾ yard = 27 inches
1 yard = 36 inches
Matching Patterned Fabric:
Matching patterned fabric is an important step to take before you begin sewing. You want to make sure that the patterns, lines, strips, or plaids are aligned. This will make your project more appealing to the eye when it is done. Here you will learn how to properly match and join your fabric.
Checking the Pattern:
- Look on the selvage for marks indicating the beginning and end of a repeat, or measure the size of a repeat.
- Selvages on directional prints also have arrows indicating which end is up.
- Copy the markings onto the bank of the fabric before cutting off the selvage.
Matching the Pattern:
- Cut out the fabric sections so that the top edge of each is at same point on the print.
- Trim off the selvages
- Turn under ¾” along the matching raw edge of one piece, then pin and press the folded edge with an up and down motion.
Joining the Pattern Together:
- Place double-faced basting tape on the right side of the adjoining piece, along the seam line.
- Pin the pieces together, aligning the printed pattern and sandwiching tape.
- Stitch the seam from wrong side, but do not stitch through the tape.
- Once you have finished the seam, carefully remove the tape.
